Thursday, October 8, 2009

2010 Spring-Summer Collections (Part III)

So, finally, after a month of runway shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, fashion-weeks are over. At least, till February-March 2010, when we'll be seeing the Autumn-Winter 2010/2011 collections. But let's not hurry too much!
What can I tell you about the intense shows in Paris?
If I had to rephrase a French saying used when in trouble, cherchez la femme (look for the woman), I would say cherchez les chaussures, look for shoes!!!
I guess they never been on such a spotlight as nowadays... Is it because we are just crazy about them? Or is it that today's designs are so creative that definitely resemble masterpieces with feathers, straps, sky-high heels? Now you have booties and shooties (half booties-half shoes): really sadomasochistic designs which before were only seen on Pigalle "hot" spots...
Some designers, to achieve the-bootie-look even had models wearing socks with sandals on the runway... Check Oscar de la Renta or Valli.
Definitely, this is the year of the shoe. It could probably be due to the fact that minis seem to be back just like when Mary Quant created them on 1967. And the truth is that to wear a mini you need great shoes, to put focus on your legs...!

But back to the shows, few designers stroke a chord on me. Balmain's Christophe Decanin presented a collection that seemed to belong to "Mad Max' (1987): totally destroyed but sexy outfits, modern and edgy, with metallic mesh dresses in shiny green khaki and wrinkled boots... I liked it all!
(Note: It's a pity that when going to the boutique, most sizes are not right and nothing fits me... and I'm a 36 everywhere!!!)


Mad Max á la Balmain

Unfortunatelly I can't say the same of my beloved Alber Elbaz, from Lanvin, who is one of the most affectionate and charming human being I know. His collection looked overloaded in drapes, heavy, hard to take and wear gracefully. It is said that Elbaz will be replacing Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel... Rumors...
Chanel's. Mmm... I hated that one. First of all because of the Dutch-like shoes on the models (uh!) and then because of the childish minidresses and the stockings with straps... I'm sorry but I thought it was hideous!


Chanel (What can I say?)

I'm not quite into Jean Paul Gaultier's collection for Hermes either, although one must say their leather is the finest and the handbags were splendid as usual. The outfits though, resembling tennis ensembles from a scene of "Il Giardino dei Finzi Contini", looked difficult to wear for me.
I kind of liked Valentino's (designed by Maria Rosa Chiuri and Paolo Piccioli): nice short dresses with flowers in light colours, like beige, grey and cream... It looked very Marchesa to me, but far, far away from Valentino's classic reds and those times when he designed the collections himself.
And to put an end to my fashionista-confession, I quite loved what Giambattista Valli presented. I find him to be a very talented Italian who has not yet found the sponsor to pull him to stardom. Nice colours, lovely minis with red feathers... charming, charming.


Giambattista Valli

One last tip: The new trends say, it's time to invest in shoes and jewelry, specially huge necklaces and many many bracelets!

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