Memories from Punta...

Memories from Chandon's White Party in Punta del Este. Dress by Versace.

(Photo by María Teresa Alvarez) 

It all seems so far away...

Windows of New York...

Bergdorf Goodman, on Fifth Avenue... My favorite store in the world...

Bulgari's snake...

Harry Winston...

Como Shambhala in Parrot Cay...

If there is a place in the world I truly enjoy, which gathers all the conditions I exactly seek in a stay, that is Parrot Cay.

I've been here many times already... If I could, I'd be here more often. Parrot Cay is a resort in an island with the same name, which belongs to Turks & Caicos, an archipelago in the south of Bahamas, and Como Shambhala is an ayurvedic spa and a very important yoga center.

Apart from the color of the sea, the white sands and the amazing gardens, what calls your attention is the peace and calmness around. No high-volume music, no noisy people... It's like a Yoga clinic, whose staff is mainly proffesional: masseurs and masseuses, therapists and coaches. There are two restaurants: one which is ayervedic and the other, vegetarian. There's no dress code, no smoking allowed, you wake up with the sun and can take yoga classes in the beach. There are Pilates and Pranayana courses, at sunset, in the Pavillon. Early dinner is served and then, to bed!

I challenge anyone to come here and get in shape. There are no stores around, except for a tiny one in the lobby.

In the hours free of courses, you get to read, think or just stare at the sea...

There are many Como Shambhalas in the world: in Bhutan, at the Maldives, in Bali.

For now, I know only this one, in Parrot Cay... But I'm sure all of them are just fantastic...

November...

Since I was a little girl, I've always loved the month of November... It's my favorite in the year. Specially when I'm in Europe. I love the golden colors of the trees, the fruits of November (kakis and chestnuts), the mood of the entire month, the eleventh of the year, the one that gets us ready for winter...

It's cold, the olives are harvested to make new oils, those that have a bittier taste that I love, and the light is dimmer and charming...

Too bad it only lasts 30 days...

A view of Parc Monceau from the window of my bedroom...

Parc Monceau - Sunday...

It's raining over Parc Monceau...

Summer Ecstasy...

Some time ago I used to measure time with Summers: how many have passed, and how many are to come. Then I've realized that you could have many Summers in one same year... and that in less than a 6-hour flight, I could have one at my request!

And for me, Summer and pleasure, Summer and ecstasy (which means, in Greek, to exist outside oneself) are synonyms. Some examples...

1. Sunset on the Greek island of Santorini. To see how the Sun, resembling a ball of fire, drowns in the turquoise waters of the Aegean Sea, projecting a pureness of light almost mystical.

2. To read the newspapers on a clear and sunny morning of June or July, seated at a table at the Cafe Le Senequier in St. Tropez, while I have a cold mint. And see the movement of the Harbor, the peacefulness before the agitation of the afternoon and the nightlife...

3. To witness what it feels to be the first, the one that marks the beginning of the season, when, by early December, I go to have lunch at La Huella in José Ignacio. I know all what's about to come: the parties, the tourists, the traffic jams, the summer scandals, the summer romances, the IT looks... But, for now, there's no-one and I'm the only one able to admire the strength of the waves, that come and go...

4. To swim among the rocks of Il Pellicano, in Porto Ercole, Tuscany. A unique place. The sea is cold and I feel like I can re-born as Aphrodite. 

5. The uncontrollable pleasure of leaving Paris, in an early November morning, so sad, grey and rainy, to land, only 10 hours later, at the Guanahani Hotel, in St. Barth, where the sun shines, it's 28°C outside and there's still much of the day to enjoy...

6. To eat grilled octopus, with lots of lime juice, at a restaurant on Agios Beach in Mykonos. And loose my sight on the horizon...

7. To walk the Tuscan hills around Montepulciano, in the Italian "estate" and feel small again. To smell the hay, the heat, the sun. To admire the hundred-year-old olive trees and the vines which, soon, will be loaded with grapes, rich in nectar.

8. To enjoy the narcissistic pleasure of watching oneself on the many mirrors of the Charlie Trotter restaurant, in Palmilla, Mexico. And see how my salmon dress enhances my tan...

9. To eat a juicy fig, hand-picked by me from its tree, in a wild garden on the Island of Panarea. To feel with my hands how it was brought up by the Sun, leaving its taste and heat in the fruit. And to think how wonderful the Summer is...

10. To take a yoga class at sunset at the Como Shambala, in Parrot Cay. To advance with the different postures as night falls, till I reach the final relax in the semi-darkness. And be in peace with myself...

I wrote this piece of the last issue of Mustique Magazine. I hope you've enjoyed it!

San Biagio...

I could not help the desire to share with my dear readers a view of the splendid San Biagio Church.

A couple of hours ago, while going to have dinner at "La Grotta," my favorite local restaurant, this architectonic masterpiece took my breath away, as it usually does.

Enjoy its magic...

Spring in Paris...

Finally, the good weather is here...

The so-awaited spring exploded in Paris and the Sun shines in thousand shades.

The light, the flowers, the green leaves on trees and a feeling of joy, of holidays coming soon, make of Paris the best place to be around these days...

Parisians are more than happy, specially after a long (really really long) winter, and to celebrate, starting tomorrow and till Tuesday, May 25th, part of the Avenue Champs-Elysées will be transformed into a huge garden: from l'Etoile, where the Arc de Triomphe is, to the Rond-Point, three hectares of nature, from flowers to unique vegetation and small trees. Absolutely no cars on the most famous avenue in the World for 48 hours, everything organised by Nature Capitale to celebrate the International Day of Biodiversity. Of course I'll be stopping by, on foot, to take a look.

With the begining of Spring, Parisian women are starting to show the hotest trends of the season, always with their famous good taste. This year's hit look is based on a garment that used to be synonym to spending time on the beach or for sports... SHORTS.

Transformed today into an urban piece, shorts are mostly seen in denim... and if they have the lining of the pockets coming out, better still!

With what to pair them?

A jacket, long as the short, a stripped t-shirt or a tank top. Don't forget short military boots (on naked legs) or very-strappy-and high-sandals. Of course, to wear this look you must have your legs well-waxed, slightly-tanned and cellulitis-free,

Definitely a modern and young look, which I love!

The place to see and be seen this Spring in Paris is Ralph, the new restaurant on Boulevard St. Germain, on the roof-top of Ralph Lauren's new 4-floor boutique. I had lunch there the other day and it's really nice. Some of the tables are outside and others, inside, all decorated in a very American East Coast style. The menu, ranging from the salad Ralph to the burgers with fries or the lobsters, is extremely tasty. A nice and refined place that is an interesting blend between America and France.

Last Saturday in Punta del Este...

The weather is lovely, it's hot and tonight there was no need to use my usual rubber band to tie my hair during the dinner party offered by Ada de Maurier at the Parador Acqua... There was no wind so my hair-do resisted all night! There were stars in the sky and a bellissima croissant moon...

But all must come to an end and on Monday I'll be leaving... Buenos Aires, New York and Paris. Everything different: food, languages, weather, clothes (I've forgotten how to dress for winter!), houses, friends... A 180º turn just when I have gotten used to living in Punta...

However, I will still be writing my posts, telling you rather more international stuff than local...

But I'll for sure miss my daily trips to Tienda Inglesa (Punta's top supermarket), the events organized by Grupo Mass+, Diana's hairdressing salon, reading El País every morning, going to Maldonado's street markets every Sunday and the Uruguayan drinking mate with their thermos under their arms...

... And my morning walks (6 km a day!) following the Mansa coastline.

Another summer comes to an end, at least for me. Another of the many summers spent here in Punta del Este, many joyful, others extremely painful. But that's Life, right? With its miseries and splendors.

Ciao Summer in Punta. See you next year...

Hello Paris...

Here I come...

December 1st in New York City...

It's cold, as usual around these days of December...

First thing in the morning, today I went to get a pair of ear-muffs, great American invention.

Just in case you don't know, it's a head-band, of black or brown velvet, that has two round cushions, of fake or real fur (who cares?), to protect the ears from the cold wind that blows untamed from the Hudson River.

The advantage of ear-muffs opposite to hats is that they protect you from the cold without ruining your hair-do.

NYC during Christmas' eve is such an event... legendary, actually. So many traditions, that do not seem to diminish with the recession.

Everything kicks-in in Thanksgiving, the last Thursday of November and one of the most important celebrations of the year. From then on, retailers create different events to attract shoppers... for instance, Black Friday, were sales begin, specially in house apparel, bedding, etc. Then, there's Cyber Monday, were customers are bombarded with promotions and discount coupons to shop online, specially electronic and computer stuff.

And today, December 1st, it was Ladies' day... discounts in all labels and designers, ranging from 40%  to 50% off.

Bergdorf & Goodman was a runway of women in fur coats and Hermès bags fighting over Christian Louboutin booties.

I do have experience in Pre-Christmas sales, so I do not think I could say that recession brought less enthusiasm or less display of Holiday decorations...

On the contrary, I was struck (as usual, really) by the fantastic window display of Bergdorf... Such an ode to fantasy and immagination, luxury... so against recession!

Magic at Bergdorf

NYC is NYC, recession or not.

To prove it, enough to grab a bite at Cipriani on 5th Ave., one of the hotests spots in town.

By 7 pm it was already crowded.

Next to my table I had Harvey Weinstein, Hollywood producer and Tycoon from Miramax, having dinner with his two small daughters... He was having a milanesa steak with spaghetti... Pasta with meat? An heresy for an Italian like myself...

I walked back home some blocks on 5th Ave... It was so cold... but I had my ear-muffs on...

Abercrombie & Fitch in Milan

Short visit to Milan, one of my favourite cities in the World, because of its elegance and charm, the professionalism of its people, the way everything works to perfection and, of course, its SHOPS!

On a tiny square of only four streets long you can find all the boutiques of the mayor fashion designers from Italy, France, England and the US.

Our walk begins on the legendary Via Montenapoleone, all the way to the corner with Via Sant'Andrea, where you'll find Café Cova, a mandatory stop to rest from the shopping spree with a buon cappuccino and one of its unique sweet pasticcinis.

Then, continuing on Via Sant'Andrea, you'll see, one next to the other, Chanel, Hermès, Fendi, Michael Kors, Prada... all of them squeezed in one hundred meters... such a sight for sore eyes!

Make a turn on the famous Via della Spiga (pedestrian street) and you'll find two Dolce & Gabbana stores, two Roberto Cavalli shops, one Gio Moretti and a concept store with one-of-a-kind outfits. They are followed by as many jewelry stores as you can possibly imagine...

It is always a pleasure to come here and walk around these world-famous streets... except that they are empty now: few people passing-by and no-one in the stores!!

What is going on?

I ask this to my friend, Adriana, a true "Milanesa" and a manager at Les Copains, a good clothing label.

She tells me we are facing great changes in our relationship with fashion and women, due to the global recession, no longer feel like spending a lot of money on clothing nor investing on key classical pieces to wear over and over. Everything now is about buying outfits and accessories that make a statement from low-cost retail stores as Zara, H&M and Topshop.

She then takes me to take a look to the new fashion temple in Milano...

Not far from the golden streets of fashion, in the corner of Corso Matteotti and Via San Pietro dell'Orto, behind a huge front gate, rises the new pride of Milano: Abercrombie & Fitch.

Voilá where people were hiding!

Long lines to get inside, as in NYC, and gorgeous guys in their twenty-somethings, wearing unbuttoned plaid shirts (in spite of the cold), to welcome you to the store. And once inside, beautiful girls in the casual sexy look that shapes the spirit of the brand, created in 1892 by David T. Abercrombie and Ezra Fitch, two Americans who loved trekking and out-door recreation. The label was modernized a few years ago by Michael Jeffries and it became something of a cult thanks to some few secrets: as I said. beautiful men and women welcoming shoppers, sexy-but-not-tacky outfits, and above all, low prices.

Every store in the world feels the same: extremely-high music, scented air, and an American-sporty look circa 1892 decorating the walls.

It was common to ask for an A&F t-shirt to all those travelling to the States.

Now, Milan has its very own A&F Temple and in 2011 so will Paris.

As I wait in Milan's airport, I see that 1 of 5 fellow travellers carry an A&F bag...

Montepulciano

Just for a two-day visit, today I came back to my home-town. Well, it's technically more than just my home-town.

Wikipedia would say that Montepulciano is a medieval and Renaissance hill town and commune in the province of Siena, in southern Tuscany (Italy). It has an elevation of 605 m, sits on a high limestone ridge, and it is inhabited by 13.870 people.

It has one of the most important architectonic masterpieces of Humanity, the Sanctuary of the Madonna de San Biagio, built between 1518 and 1545 by Antonio da Sangallo The Elder. It has a circular (central) plan with a large dome over a terrace and a squared tambour. The exterior, with two bell towers, is built in white travertine. Turists, specially in Summer, come from the four corners of the World.

In Montepulciano, apart from my sister and I, in 1454 was born Angelo Ambrogini, known as Il Poliziano, one of the most important Humanist poets of the Médici Era.

Montepulciano is also well-known by its red wine, the Nobile di Montepulciano,  an excellent chianti, produced in many of the vineyards sorrounding the city.

Except for some minor changes, everything looks like it was back in 1500, and in this particular November night, cold and humid, with no turists in sight, it seems as if time has not gone by at all.

But from November 18th, Montepulciano will be known by many others.

That will be the date of the world premiere of  "New Moon", the second installment of the Twilight Saga.

As it happens, the movie has key scenes that were shot here, in Montepulciano, during March and April of this year. Its Medieval streets, its Piazza Grande and its aristrocratic palazzos were used as scenarios.

If the movie has the success everyone predicts, next summer we'll be invaded by turists and vampire-lovers.

What a shame.

Autumn in Paris.

First week of November... and such vivid sensations...

To begin with, the beautiful colours of Autumn, with its yellows, its reds and oranges in every tree of the many Parks of the City: the Parc Monceau, the Butte de Montmartre or even the Jardin de Luxembourg, with its many ghosts of past artists throughout the centuries. Writers as Gérard de Nerval, poets as Baudelaire, paintors as Modigliani or even Françoise Sagan, who lived in front, spent time at le Jardin. Such a leyend, really.

But around these days you can also see some very premature Christmas decorations and the very first sales at the big department stores such as Galeries Lafayette or Printemps. We are on the 8 of November... Sales already? Even offering 50% off? Some labels try to resist them, but most of them play by the new rules of the market. Everything better than getting stuck with merchandise!

Sales at Printemps!

The recession here has been strong and you can feel it everywhere. For example, restaurants around town have reduced the TVA tax from 16,90% to 5,50% and have even cut off some prices on the menu to get some clients back to dinning out. You can also see the crisis on the many no-funds checks than have been given by so many desperate pleople... Never has there been so many as this year!

But appart from all this, the first weeks of November are famous in France because of the many Literature prizes being given out these days. The most wanted one is the Prix Goncourt, the dream of every writer, which this year was awarded to Marie NDiaye, quite a surprise for women seldom get this prize. In fact, the last one to receive it was Paule Constat in 1998. There's also the Prix Renaudot, which was given to Frédéric Beigbeder, for "Un roman francais", my very favourite one! The Prix Flore, organized by the legendary Café Flore, was awarded to Simon Liberati, while Jean Marie Blas de Robles took home the Prix Medicis. To be announced are the winners of the Prix Fémina and the Prix Interaillé...

... And so, after that, another season would have gone by...

My favourite, Frédéric Beigbeder

Halloween in New York

This weekend New York was hot... You'll see why!

As you probably know, on the night of October 31st., everyone here celebrates Halloween. For US it is almost like a National Holiday. Halloween has its roots in the Celtic festival of Samhain and the Christian holy day of All Saints. It is said that it was the Irish immigrants who trasnfered versions of their traditions in America during the Famine of 1840. The word Halloween represents a Scots variant of the fuller All-Hallows-Even, which means the night before All Saints Day.

For Halloween everything turns black and orange, kids go around the neighbourhoods trick-or-treating, cinemas and TV channels showcase horror-movies marathons, and there are costume parties everywhere.

No city celebrates Halloween as New York.

Since I got here, early in the morning, I got to feel the Halloween spirit first-hand: all the staff and employees of the Airport greeted visitors dressed as vampires, witches and huge pumpkins. And it was six in the morning!!

Parties in the Big Apple had begun earlier, on Friday Night actually and, since September, about 725 "Pop-up Shops," selling tricks and costumes literally poped-up in key places around the city. They will last till the first week of November. Why? Because of the recession, of course. As many shops had to close, owners prefer to rent the free spaces temporally. After Halloween, they will become All-Christmass boutiques.

I saw many of this shops in Downtown and I was surprised by the fact that the biggest selling masks were those of Michael Jackson and Bernie Maddof... a dead and a convict!!!

The best shop for costumes and make-up, I have to say this, is definitely Ricky's on Broadway.

Halloween in New York is real fun, everyone gets dressed and yesterday we had a lovely mild weather to enjoy it.

Walking down 5th Avenue towards the building I was staying at, around 5 pm, people passed me by dressed as witches, vampires, monsters and even as sado-masochists!

As I got closer, I saw a huge crowd surrounding the building while ambulances and fire trucks were stopping the traffiic. The appartment below mine was on fire!!!!!

They already were evacuating everyone, many barefoot or half-naked, as if they were just taken from their showers. The fire-fighters (many!) looked so Nicolas Cage or John Travolta!

Tourists took pictures and some even called their hometowns to tell everyone the huge adventure they were witnessing...
I sat on the steps of St. Patrick's Church to wait... I even got to meet many of my neighbours.
Finally, a couple of hours later, the Fire-Fighter-in-chief, with its incredible suit, allowed us to get back inside. No mayor damages, thanks God.
But what an advenure!

This morning, under a light rain, the 2009 ING New York Marathon was held around town: 42 km from Staten Island to Central Park and almost 40.000 runners. By far, the most popular marathon in the world!
As usual, an Ehiopian-born Meb Keflezighi won the Men's Marathon (but he's an american now) and another Ethiopian, Derartu Tulu, won the women's.
It's a fact: next year I'll run it too. I'll start training right now, going down as fast as possible the 25 floors of my NY building.
You never know... Where there was fire...

Déjeuner au Ritz

You could say that twice a year (that is during the first week of October and the first of March) the city of Paris turns up-side down!

The French just say "Uh, c'est la semaine de la mode...," as if that would justify the mess. It's true. Very famous designers, and others that are expecting to be, reveal their collection along 8 days full of runway shows. All the specialized press come here, with its Editors-in-Chief, their assistants, Photographers and staff. You have to add the models and their managers, make-up artists and coiffeurs, special guests such as singers and actresses and, last but not at all least, the BUYERS: those who chose among the collections what they'll take for the big department stores, boutiques and shops around the world, from Tokyo to Sidney, from East to West!

So this is why traffic becomes chaotic, there are parties and cocktails everywhere and everyone that has something to do with fashion comes to Paris.

And the place to be is the mythical Hotel Ritz.

The lucky ones get a room, others just come and go. The place to see and be seen is the Bar at the Ritz, where you get to have a table only if you know the right people!

As a fashionist and blogger, I lunched there everyday: it's much more fun that the runway shows themselves!

I had a table next to Yoko Ono and her son Julian Lennon (with a really pretty girlfriend) and also near Peter Dundas (Pucci's new designer) who was with Daphne Guinness (my serious fashionista-opponent... she was wearing Nina Ricci's heel-less shoes that look as if hanging in mid-air...!!). I also saw Lindsay Lohan, who's now some kind of style advisor to Ungaro. The Maison is trying to bring fresh air to a brand that's been decaying over the years... Mmm... I dont't think they'll get it if they keep showing models almost naked on the runway... Ungaro's new designer is an unknown Estrella Arch from Spain, but I'll be commenting more on the collections on another post.

Back to the Ritz.

Janet Jackson was also there and so were Grace Coddington and Anna Wintour. I couldn't actually tell if they were really there or if I was dreaming them after falling asleep over my issue of Vogue!

To get back to Planet Earth, I went to 17, Rue Scribe, near L‘Opera, to the opening of UNIQLO, a gigantic low-cost Japanese retail store, with other branches in cities such as London and NY.

In Paris, they got a 2100-mts-space and, much to my surprise, there was a three-block line to get inside!!

As I am a deeply curious person, I stood behind a group of Japanese and waited patiently for my turn. I didn't care much that my totally-Ritz-outfit (Prada Spring-Summer 2005 suit with Louboutin heels of painful 14 cm!) was caughting the attention of passers-by that kept laughing at us (some even took pictures!).

After a half-and-hour wait, I got inside the Uniqlo Temple, a three-floor-high space packed with clothes of the happiest colours, very very Gap.

At Uniqlo you can get cashmere sweaters for 49,90 euros, jeans for 9,90 euros and Jill Sander-specially-designed-coats for 120 euros... Tempting!

But the waiting lines at the cashier diminished my patience completely.

I went outside empty-handed.

A girl at the exit gave 100%-organic-cotton bags to all buyers (those carrying Uniqlo bags) and, of course, she totally ignored me.

I guess I better head back to the Ritz for tea...

Camden Market

Fashion week in London. Beautiful weather. What a great opportunity then to cross the Channel with the Eurostar for the week-end: 2 hours and 15 minutes of high speed to reach destination and even win an extra hour thanks to the fact that the English live on a different time-zone than the French!

And, now that we are here, why not visit Camden Market for the first time?

After taking a look around, one gets to discover many things from England.

To begin with, this is a totally free country in what has to do with fashion and style.

Want to dye your hair pink? Why not?

But you are a man? Who cares?

Want to carry a piercing on the tip of your nose? Go ahead!

Isn't it fantastic?

Camden Market is located north of London, it was opened on 1974 together with Camden Lock and it is now a laberynth of shops, stands, food carts from around the world, piercing and tatoo salons and little spots where you can find the craziest stuff! Green wigs, 25-cm-high platform shoes and, of course, the English flag printed almost anywhere: china, mugs, rugs, pillows...

And the hats!! The English love them and they are not afraid to actually use them!

As for the clothes, in Camden Market you can get from arab outfits for belly-dancing to burqas!

This definitely reflects the essence of London: un bouillon des cultures, where each one coexists peacefully with their traditions, their looks and fashions.

Now I understand where John Galliano, Stella McCartney and, specially Alexander McQueen get their ideas and inspiration: from places like Camden Market.

No longer interested in going to Fashion Week here.

I think I've seen it all!

Shopping in Camden Market

PS 1: On the train back home, I read (or should I say, ate?) Mauvaise Fille, by Justine Levy.

What a fantastic book! Such a way to portray her soul, her pain, her fears... that is, bringing her guts inside-out, without any tabu. Pure talent.

PS 2: Now I bear two hopes...

1. That Justine gets the Goncourt Prix to which she is a nominee in November (It is France most important Literature award).

2. That the Spanish translation of her novel reaches Argentina as soon as possible so that you too can enjoy it.

Merci!!

Behind the Parisian quartier of Le Marais, on the Boulevard Beaumarchais, between the Place de la Repúblique and the Place de la Bastille (or between la Bastille and la Republique as Marc, mi driver, noted) a little more than a month ago a new boutique called Merci came to life.

More than a boutique, one can say that it's actually an emporium, for you can find from used books to antique china, YSL or Chanel outfits, Gap Jeans, or even plants and flowers!

Of course, in spite of never being around that particular quartier, I had to go and check it out.

I was nicely shocked: It is quite different from other Paris' Concept Stores as Colette or Montaige Market, which are mainly multi-label shops.

Merci has a cafeteria called Used Book Café, which walls packed to the ceiling with used books create a warm and cozy atmosphere. There's a patio with a parked red Fiat Cinquecento full of toys. And the main salon has very special finishing touches, such as hundreds of tea cups hanging from the roof in white laces.

The clothes, although not my style, change every week so it's a matter of dropping by from time to time.

But the most important thing here is that its owner, Marie-France Cohen (also owner of Bonpoint, the oldest and nicest baby clothing label in Paris) has decided to donate all incomes of Merci to a benefit helping the children and women of Madagasca.

Voilá, this is new: the Concept-Store Solidaire.

Merci, Marie-France, for knowing how tobe grateful.

Used Book Café at Merci.