2010 Spring-Summer Collections (Part II)

Tomorrow will be the last day of the runway shows for the Spring-Summer 2010 Collections in Milan and the caravan of fashion will reach its final stop: Paris.

So, what could be seen in Milan then?

If we guide ourselves from what the English newspapers have been publishing lately, nothing good really.

According to them, the fashion collections in Milan were better suited for "le zoccole", which could be translated as "for cats". In the worst possible meaning, of course.

It is true that most Italian designers presented many mini-skirts (getting shorter every day!), see-through fabrics in the limit of decency, 15-cm-high impossible heels and drapes typical of a brothel... indeed of an arguable taste and definitely not elegant...

However, we must keep in mind that these runway shows are just that, shows and that many of the clothes are presented by skinny models aged 19 to whom nothing looks awful really.

What will actually be on sale in the boutiques will be different... or at least I hope so!

But you never know these days...

I would recommend, because of its prints, its colours and minis, the Versace Collection, sexy and fresh.

Also the one signé by Dolce & Gabbana: a balanced mixture between male and female, minidresses as petticoats and suits for men with white shirts and ties. All black looks with just some touches of beige and red.

I likes Pucci's Collection (the second one with Peter Dundas as designer and better than his first) because of its many colours and freshness.

To highlight: shoes tall to the ankle are still hot, with straps as booties and extremely high heels.

And a revival: drapes have invaded all summer dresses.

Let's see now what Paris has to offer.

Fashion for cats?

Dsquared Spring-Summer 2010 Collection

Sexy Versace in Milan.

Un Prophète

After winning the Gran Prix du Jury at the Cannes Film Festival, Jacques Audiard's movie, Un prophète, has just premiered here in Paris.

I saw it yesterday and it left me breatheless!

It tells a dark story of prisons and delinquency, of lack of racial integration, violence and corruption... but it is however enlighted by the presence and talent of Tahar Rahim, a young actor that, as the French put it, "creve l'ecran", which means that his presence alone steals the whole scene.

He plays Malik El Djebena, a 19-year-old robber, iliterate and family-less, convicted to a 6-year sentence in prison, who, thanks to his natural wit, is able to dominate to his advantage that world of despair.

But that's all I'll tell you. You have to see it.

The movie is already a candidate to be nominated for Best Foreign Movie in next year's Academy Awards, and believe me, you'll hear lots about it!

The Devil wears Prada... and so do I.

Fashion Week in Milan and as usual, what everyone here looks for is Miuccia Prada's Fashion Show.

While other shows are packed with special guests and stars, in hers there's only one person in the spotlight: Miuccia, of course.

Talented as few, she just become 60 in May and still imposes her laws in the Fashion bussiness. Her name is more than just a brand or label: the other day, in a restaurant, I saw a young woman wearing a tatoo on her arm that read Fashion is Miuccia.

Her 2010 Spring-Summer Collection did not deceive her fans, among which I include myself!

As usual, she had the wit to present new hits, such as shoes decorated with crystal lamp beads (creating an effect of fantasy and lightness), or dresses made with what looked as sun-dyed drapes but were actually specially created fabrics with a mixture of duchesse silk and nylon, channelling the nostalgic with the futuristic.

There were manu short skirts and everyone loved the net tunics with crystal beads worn over fourreaux of white silk in a trapezoidal cut.

Another Miuccia Prada hit: she has just opened a new boutique in Milan, on Corso Venecia, where shoppers can customize their buys by embroidering their initials, or choose jeans among 22 different types of dyed denim, or even order a dress or a coat in any desired colour.

An excellent way to escape from what's imposed and creat a unique wardrobe.

As usual, Miuccia is the best.

The Princess and the President

In France, on Thursdays the most popular magazines here hit the newstands.
And today, the covers of the top ones (Paris-Match, Le Point, Le Nouvelle Observateur), share a same topic: the new book, to be on sale tomorrow, "La Princesse et le Président," written by Valéry Giscard d'Estang, former President of France.
It's been a week already since the whole French and English press started making assumptions on the subject of this novel which tells an impossible love story between Jacques-Henry Lambertye, President of France, and Lady Patricia, Princess of Cardiff, beautiful, blond and unhappily married to the Prince of Wales.
Hello? Does this ring a bell?
Well, as it happens, in the Nineties (more precisely in 1994), Lady Diana had a meeting with VGE (as he is known here), who had been President of France between 1974 and 1981. However, no-one could imagine that they actually had a thing going on! He was 65 by then and she a little over 30...
He wasn´t much of a heartbreaker, but quite a charmer... at least, that's what I'm being told.
Anyway, this is what's in everyone's conversation here in Paris.
VGE gave only one interview: to Le Point. There he says that it was Lady Diana's idea to create a love story with two characters just like them and that he, to honour her memory, decided to finally do so last year.
Of course, he denies a true romance but many believe he likes playing with the mistery and this, of course, will increase the sales of his book and maybe produce some sour relationships with the English.
Is it the outcome of the imagination of an old man?
Or really a love story with a tragic end?
I guess we'll never know for sure...

Camden Market

Fashion week in London. Beautiful weather. What a great opportunity then to cross the Channel with the Eurostar for the week-end: 2 hours and 15 minutes of high speed to reach destination and even win an extra hour thanks to the fact that the English live on a different time-zone than the French!

And, now that we are here, why not visit Camden Market for the first time?

After taking a look around, one gets to discover many things from England.

To begin with, this is a totally free country in what has to do with fashion and style.

Want to dye your hair pink? Why not?

But you are a man? Who cares?

Want to carry a piercing on the tip of your nose? Go ahead!

Isn't it fantastic?

Camden Market is located north of London, it was opened on 1974 together with Camden Lock and it is now a laberynth of shops, stands, food carts from around the world, piercing and tatoo salons and little spots where you can find the craziest stuff! Green wigs, 25-cm-high platform shoes and, of course, the English flag printed almost anywhere: china, mugs, rugs, pillows...

And the hats!! The English love them and they are not afraid to actually use them!

As for the clothes, in Camden Market you can get from arab outfits for belly-dancing to burqas!

This definitely reflects the essence of London: un bouillon des cultures, where each one coexists peacefully with their traditions, their looks and fashions.

Now I understand where John Galliano, Stella McCartney and, specially Alexander McQueen get their ideas and inspiration: from places like Camden Market.

No longer interested in going to Fashion Week here.

I think I've seen it all!

Shopping in Camden Market

PS 1: On the train back home, I read (or should I say, ate?) Mauvaise Fille, by Justine Levy.

What a fantastic book! Such a way to portray her soul, her pain, her fears... that is, bringing her guts inside-out, without any tabu. Pure talent.

PS 2: Now I bear two hopes...

1. That Justine gets the Goncourt Prix to which she is a nominee in November (It is France most important Literature award).

2. That the Spanish translation of her novel reaches Argentina as soon as possible so that you too can enjoy it.

2010 Spring-Summer Collections (Part I)

Today is the final day of the runway shows in New York and this caravan of Fashion will then leave for London and Milan to reach beautiful Paris by the end of October.

So what about the runway shows?

Honestly, I've looked and studied the collections and I'm not at all impressed!

Everything... more of the usual! Many styles, colours and outfits that looked as if belonging to previous years. Little imagination.

I know, I know... We are in the middle of recession and Fashion, as everything and everyone, has to readapt itself to the new scenario. Is it because of this that Ralph Lauren's collection looked so-last-season to me?

Anyway, my worst consideration goes to Marc Jacobs, a fashion genius for many... Few times have I seen outfits with such little grace, such colourless-colours, lengths so unfitting to women in general. It proved circus-like to me!

On the contrary, I found Diane von Furstenberg's collection, designed by Nathan Jenden, nice and fresh, with uplifting colours (oranges and yellows), knee-length skirts and vaguely African prints. Very summery in fact.

I also would highlight Michael Kors', with his American Chic style and his dresses with transparent entre-deux.

In general, from what's been seen in most of the Collections, one can say that there's a comeback of the yellow, the short skirts, and high shoes and platforms.

Dulcis in fundo... my beloved Oscar de la Renta's collection, who, as everyone knows, is my-all-time favourite designer. As usual, his clothes were elegant, charming and impecable. Amazing were the day suits made in crochet and the night dresses in pink, orange or blue.

Let's see what the European designers have to give.

I'll keep you posted!

Lots of Orange on Oscar de la Renta's runway.

Merci!!

Behind the Parisian quartier of Le Marais, on the Boulevard Beaumarchais, between the Place de la Repúblique and the Place de la Bastille (or between la Bastille and la Republique as Marc, mi driver, noted) a little more than a month ago a new boutique called Merci came to life.

More than a boutique, one can say that it's actually an emporium, for you can find from used books to antique china, YSL or Chanel outfits, Gap Jeans, or even plants and flowers!

Of course, in spite of never being around that particular quartier, I had to go and check it out.

I was nicely shocked: It is quite different from other Paris' Concept Stores as Colette or Montaige Market, which are mainly multi-label shops.

Merci has a cafeteria called Used Book Café, which walls packed to the ceiling with used books create a warm and cozy atmosphere. There's a patio with a parked red Fiat Cinquecento full of toys. And the main salon has very special finishing touches, such as hundreds of tea cups hanging from the roof in white laces.

The clothes, although not my style, change every week so it's a matter of dropping by from time to time.

But the most important thing here is that its owner, Marie-France Cohen (also owner of Bonpoint, the oldest and nicest baby clothing label in Paris) has decided to donate all incomes of Merci to a benefit helping the children and women of Madagasca.

Voilá, this is new: the Concept-Store Solidaire.

Merci, Marie-France, for knowing how tobe grateful.

Used Book Café at Merci.

I love Tom Ford!!

This one is definitely a carreer!! And quite a successful one too!

Born 48 years ago in Austin, Texas, he begun first as a model (for he is sooo goodlooking!) and then entered the Parsons School of Design to study Architecture. From then on, he started giving his first steps towards the Fashion bussiness.

After working at Perry Ellis in New York, he decided he had to try Milan or Paris.

In 1992, the Gucci Group hired him to renovate the image of the label. In no time, Gucci increased its sales in 90%. When the company owning Gucci bought Yves Saint Laurent, Ford was named its new Creative Director.

In 2004 he decided to retire to begin his own sunglasses and perfume label, called Tom Ford, of course.

Today he has stores in cities like New York, Toronto and Zurich.

But now we lay eyes on him again, this time as a movie director!

Yesterday, at the Venice Film Festival, he presented "A Single Man", based on the novel by Christopher Isherwwod which he adapted together with David Scearce. The cast include Colin Firth, Julianne Moore and Lee Pace.

Critics have been unanimous to judge Tom's excellent directorial debut and some even say that the film could get a Gold Lion in Venice.

I love Tom Ford! So chic!

With his cast in Venice

Fashion's Night Out

Today, on September 10th., 13 cities in the World celebrated the first Fashion's Night Out: US Vogue's Anna Wintour's idea to stand up to the global recession to which the Fashion Industry is no exception.

What was it all about? In the main streets of the mayor cities of the world (Paris, New York, Tokyo, Milan, Sao Paulo, Moscow, Madrid, London, Berlin, New Delhi, Taipei, Athens and Beijing) boutiques and stores pushed their opening hours till 11 pm and offered cocktails and champagne to passers-by and, of course, shoppers.

Some stores even offered special sales prices and had the designers themselves welcoming guests at the door.

All this, to celebrate Fashion.

I've just got home after spending time on l'Avenue Montaigne and believe me, it looked like a party!

Hundreds of women, in their most fashionable outfits, coming and going, chatting and buying on the beautiful streets of Paris' golden triangle.

I stopped by Jimmy Choo, Ferragamo, Cavalli, Dior (by far the one with the greatest desplay and service), Prada...

I still cannot say if there's been an increase in sales in general, but it was a nice and cheerful moment to share and leave behind past agonies.

I'm sure that, recession or not, Fashion's Night Outs have come to stay.

It just feels like a Party... on Avenue Montaige.

Karl Lagerfeld and French Vogue's Carine Roitfeld greeting guests at Chanel.

Go Italian girls!

In France, they fear Italian women. Of course I do not mean the French men... Sarkozy is a living proof!

From Catalina and Maria de Medicis to Monica Belluci, Italian women had been a tremendous success and not just in France... They are considered sexy, warm, beautiful and even maternal.

So it comes as no surprise that George Clooney, perhaps the most desired bachelor on Earth, has fallen for an Italian gal.

In the past month and a half, he has been spoted all over Italy with Elisabetta Canalis, a 31-year-old brunnette, known in my country for several jobs on TV shows, for having dated some popular football players and, most of all, for being tremendously beautiful, very italianesque...

They've been seen on his bike (she with a helmet and a close grip to George's waist) and it is said that she already spent time at his Villa on Lake Como.

All this was enough to unleash real madness among paparazzis trying to get pictures of the two together...

Till last night.

In a stupendous smoking, George walked the red carpet of the Venice Film Festival holding  Elisabetta's hand. And like that, they went public.

She was wearing a green long Roberto Cavalli dress and looked stunning.

The pictures of them are on today's newspaper everywhere.

I hope they are happy.

Isn't it nice to dream?

Les cuissards or tall-boots

In the Fashion bussiness, from time to time, there are certain comebacks...

In my fashion-life for instance, I think it's gonna be the third time that extra-tall boots become the IT accesory of the moment.

Some time ago they used to be just over the knee. Then they became heel-less as ballerina-like-boots. And now they are reborn tall as never before (almost reaching the crotch), with 15-cm high heels, tight as leggins and above all... black! They were conceived to be paired with mini-skirts and together pull a mixture of rocker/grunge look.

So today, in spite of the unbearable 29°C and fiercing sun, I decided to hit the streets of Paris in search of my perfect tall-boots. I begun at Ave. Montaigne's Montaigne Market to try Gianvito Rossi's which, according to US Vogue, are the best in market... Uhmm... so so... kind of uncomfortable, to low a heel. Not for me. Let's try somewhere else.

Next stop: Azzaro, one of the chic-est boutiques in town. But the boots... too worked-up. Better not.

I head to Faubourg St. Honoré to reach Lanvin, where they have quite an amazing pair... except for the silver heel. However the leather's good, soft, tight comme il faut... but not at all convincing. Let's try Gucci.

Here they are: beautiful, extra-log and extra-black.

Definitely the best!

Except that now I feel so hot and tired that I no longer want boots... just my plastic Havaiianas!

The time to use boots look so far away now...

Extra-tall boots, by Gucci.

Wedding in Belgium

Yesterday I've been to Antoing, Belgium, for the wedding of Edouard, the son of my cousin Charles-Antoing de Ligne, with the beautiful Italian actress Isabella Orsini.

It was like a fairy-tale: a good-looking Prince (real!), the castle, the carriage, the music... magical!

The ceremony was held in the town's church at 5 pm, with all the people of Antoing as witnesses (only 7567!) on the streets, waiting anxiously to see the Bride and Groom! Inside, the church was packed with journalists and paparazzis because Isabella is not only a very popular celebrity in Italian TV but she is also the goddaughter of Silvio Berlusconi, who could not make it to the wedding due to his troubled agenda.

Gerald Watelet, a Belgium designer, made the bridal gown, which was elegant and yet sexy, beautifully paired with a diadema and earings from a jeweler of Brussels, with diamonds and acquamarines.

When the ceremony was over, a carriage pulled by white horses (!!) took the newly-weds to the Castle were the reception was to be held. In there, guests had time and enough rooms to change our outfits for our long dresses.

At 9 pm dinner was served on a specially decorated white tent with African motifs. In fact, the bride and groom came inside to the music of "Out of Africa".

There were 350 guests who came from the four corners of the world. Many aristocrats, actors, actresses and movie directors as Jean-Jacques Annaud.

At midnight, after the wedding cake, a band showed-up and got everyone on the dance floor.

Honeymoon? Bora Bora.

What I wore? Oscar de la Renta and Oscar de la Renta.

More pictures of the wedding here.

Alexandre de Paris

This morning I decided to go to the salon of Alexandre de Paris, the most famous and prestigious in town.
It was so moving to be climbing those legendary stairs to get to the first floor of the building at Rue Matignon!
To think that Grace Kelly, the Duchess of Windsor and Elizabeth Taylor, among other mythical women, had Alexandre do their hair from 1946 till his death on 2008.
Today his salon has been fully restored and re-opened just a few days ago. Alexandre's soul however still floats in the air, in the haute couture chignons worn by so many royalty brides or the brushings à la Catherine Deneuve in "Belle du Jour" that he made famous and were demanded by so many high-class women who went to lunch at La Stresa or Place Athenée.
The service is perfect and everything looks immaculate.
When I finally went down the stairs with my new hair-do, it was raining outside.
What a pity.

September in Paris

It's been already 24 hours since I got to Paris.

It rains. Then the sun comes out. Then it rains again...

No wonder Fall's getting nearer...

It's Back to School time and you can feel it in the air... People walk the streets already missing the holiday season and the heat.

Another year begins...

I went to take a look around Faubourg St. Honoré and l'Avenue Montaigne, the two hot-spots of Fashion in Paris, so as to feel "l'air du temps" and see what's new for fall...

This is it: lots of black, lots of glitter (most labels have something sequined, from Chanel to H&M), leather leggins, leather dresses (in black, of course), mini-skirts and shoulder-pads... a very 80s look, which has been revisited by Balmain two seasons ago and it is finally exploding in Paris.

Do I like it? I don't know. I'll guess I'll have to try some of those outfits.

I'll keep you posted though.