My readers always ask me about Montepulciano… I wrote this piece about my home town for Revista Mustique and, as it is now in newstaands, I can share it with you. I invite you to travel there for a few minutes. I hope you enjoy it!
Today, Montepulciano is «the place» to visit in Tuscany. The small streets are now always crowded. This has increased the number of restaurants and memorabilia stores.
It is said that, in life, to know where we are going, we must know from where we come… For me it's crystal clear: I was born in a small and glorious town in the heart of Tuscany, called Montepulciano. And that small town is like no other.
The beauty is more beautiful, the light is more luminous, cipresses are taller and churches (the true treasures of Italy) are more mystical than others. The first thing I learned in Montepulciano (and never forgot) is walking. In fact, its streets are so narrow, steep and difficult for cars that, since childhood, I had to walk and climb up slopes. Constructed on a hill 605 meters over the sea level, everything goes up and down. The Italian say that the polizianas (that's how they call the women of Montepulciano) have great legs and butts. The term «Polizianos» comes from the great poet and Humanist Angelo Ambrogini, known as Poliziano, who was born in Montepulciano in 1454.
Montepulciano has global popularity because of its wine. If Bacus or the Greek god Dionysus returned to Earth, they would certainly live there. Our wine is known as «Vino Nobile» and that is quite a statement. Documents from 1350 already mention commerce condition for exporting the wine produced in Montepulciano and, by 1685, poet Francesco Redi writes an ode dedicated to praise its many qualities (Montepulciano is king of every wine).
In 1669 English traders came to Tuscany searching for that marvellous wine, reserved only for the "lords". Our richness and tradition lies in the wine cellars which, in every corner, rival in quality, character and texture.
When I was little, tourism was scarce in Montepulciano. We looked surprised at the few visitors that arrived in Summer (Winters are very cold) stunned by such beauty.
Today, Montepulciano is «the place» to visit in Tuscany. The small streets are now always crowded. This has increased the number of restaurants and memorabilia stores.
The poliziani are secret and mysterious people, and tremendously proud of their roots. They don't like to be compared to the people of nearby towns, less still with those from the province of Arrezzo. The only city they feel a certain brotherhood is Siena.
It's very difficult to befriend a local, although things have changed in the past years. It has to do with the history of the town, marked for so many centuries of poverty because of the constant wars between Siena and Firenze.
Of those times still remain what we know as "poor cuisine": little meat, lots of vegetables and dishes than include bread, an invention of the peasants to use old bread. That was the origin of the mythical «panzanella», a cold salad made of bread crumb and crust, seasoned with basil, tomatoes, cucumbers, tuna and onions. A delicious dish. Another typical Tuscan recipe is the minestra of bread and vegetables.
The best restaurant in Montepulciano is «La Grotta», in front of the Tempio di San Biagio. In Summer, you can eat in the small garden. In Winter, by the fireplace.
But the most typical one is dal Pulcino, a fattoria where everything is homegrown and homemade. The wine, the bread, the cantucci, the pici (long pasta) and the pecorino cheese are all made by the many members of the Ercolani family: sons and grandsons of the capofamilia, known as Pulcino.
My sister and I went to school with Pulcino's daughters and I even had my communion with two of them.
With time, the range of Pulcinio's products have grown, including now honey soaps, lavender perfums, potpourri and much more. Even in Montepulciano he has another restaurant, called «La Porta di Bacco»
But not everything is food and, of course, the best part in town is its architecture. The famous Piazza Grande is a jewel of Renaissance. The Cathedral (il Duomo) is a masterpiece and inside it holds treasures as the Tríptico de l’Assunta by Taddeo di Bartolo, the altar by Andrea della Robbia, the Madonna Piccolomini di Benedetto di Maiano, among others.
The Palazzo Contucci, the Tarugi and, above all, the Palazzo Comunale (which ressembles the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence) encircle the main square, which has also served as setting for movies such “New Moon” and «Under the Tuscan sun».
There are many churches in Montepulciano: Santa Lucia's, Sant’Agostino's, Santa Maria's. One better and more beautiful than the other, but similar to many of those you can find in other Italian towns.
However, the biggest, unique, one of a kind church is the Tempio di San Biagio and it's worth going to Montepulciano just to visit it. It is definitely breathtaking. Work of the architect Antonio da Sangallo (the Elder), his construction began in 1518 and was completed in 1580.
Every human being need a safe place in the world. Mine is in Montepulciano…
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