Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Week-end in Capri...

Finally back home! Rested and calm, here I am in my library and Parisian desk, watching my two Genovesis I brought from Buenos Aires...
After a week-end in Capri, full of sun and joy, and a Gala at Versailles, nothing better to rest and recharge my energies than the grey skies of Paris.
I had been to Capri a few years ago, but somehow I wasn't quite moved then. Can't explain why. However I accepted with joy an invitation from my sister to spend a few days there and celebrate her birthday, on June 15th.
And to my great surprise... I loved Capri this time!
I guess it was a bit because of the splendid company: a mixture of Argentine and Italian people (yes, Susana was there... but can't tell you more), all so charming. And then because of the Tiberio Palace Hotel, which was simply outstanding, with an incredible view, fabulously decorated rooms and a very nice and helpful staff.
Ok, must stop with the adjectives... but it is hard.
The sun, the sea, the landscape... What more can I say?
Oh, indeed, the food: the tastiest tomatoes, "i fiori di zucca" on pasta sauces, the fish...
Capri is about 50 minutes from Naples by boat and it's a volcanic island of 6 by 3 km. 
The ancient Romans loved the site, but it was Tiberius, the Emperor who followed Augustus, who commissioned several residences. The most popular one is Villa Jovis, opened for visitors. You can also go see the Grotta Azzurra, which is where he used to swim.
Many artists throughout History have spend some time in Capri: from Curzio Malaparte, who left the amazing Villa Malaparte (a house on a rock and in the middle of the sea) to the Swedish Axel Munthe (who made Villa San Michele), Oscar Wilde, Jean Cocteau, Pablo Picasso and many more, all of whom wanted to get in touch with the local beauty of a place blessed by the Gods.
There's much to do in Capri... Walk along the small streets that overlook the sea to reach Punta Tragara and its Belvedere. And then faint in front of I Faraglioni, overwhelmed by such splendor.
Circle the island by boat and swim till Grotta Bianca or enter Grotta Azzurra.
At dusk, go to the Piazzetta, to have a drink at one of the two bars with tables and chairs outside, and watch everyone pass by. Then check out the boutiques near by, which offer from flat sandals with local stones to white lace dresses as those of l'Antica Sartoria.
Have dinner at Aurora or Paolino (my two favorite spots). I loved Paolino best. It's also known as "the one with the lemons," because it can be found right in the middle of a garden full of lemon trees.
Da Paolino you can bump into Peter Gabriel, Adrien Brody or Nicolas Cage (as it happened to me) or a nonna from Naples. All share the pleasure of the food and the table of exquisite antipasti, with the best parmesan eggplants I've ever had. A note: I've met one of the chefs, and it was an Argentine from Buenos Aires.
Aurora is a bit more chic, it's downtown and equally exquisite.
For those you enjoy the night, singing and dancing, nothing better than "Anema e Core" or Number One, where Peppino di Capri played music...
I went straight to bed... Too many "beautiful" emotions...
The lemons of Paolino...

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