Patricia della Giovampaola: December 2012

After a couple of hectic weeks, running from here to there, it's finally time to return to Buenos Aires and, quick enough, undo and redo my luggage to head to Punta del Este shortly. The last few days of the year are always so full of activities and things to do, but it's the proximity of summer what keeps us going...

Punta del Este reminds me of another destination I enjoy as much: St. Tropez. I`ve published many post from the French Riviera, but all the same, I want to share with you a piece I wrote for Mustique Magazine...

Before going to St. Tropez, it's important to make some stops in the road towards the legend... We must start by remembering the small fishermen town of the beginning of the past century, discovered by Paul Signac and his artists friends; then, the city of parties and glamour, made famous by Brigitte Bardot, Roger Vadin and Gunther Sachs; to finally reach the melancholic place that played as scenery for Francoise Sagan's famous novel and her band of insolent writers. But, apart from this clichés belonging to the past, St. Tropez proposes a contemporary reality forever re-visited. It is because of this that this mythical and magical place never ceases to amaze and seduce.

Doubting still? Well then, follow me...

Do you want to mingle with the rich and famous?

Then, enough to just have a seat, around noon, on the terrace of the Senequier, center of St. Tropez microcosmos. This year it celebrates its 125th Anniversary. It is there, among a French former President, some rich oligarchs barely-arrived-from-their-yachts and many show-biz stars, that the events and gatherings of the day are decided. Do you want to go to Naomi Campbell's birthday party? Or to the annual Tony Murray's party? Or to the (private) dinner organized by Bernard Arnault? All those activities are not forbidden to the common mortals, because generosity is a rule in St. Tropez. Of course, the tanned and beautiful are usually more lucky...

Do you want to eat well and socialize?

Among the many mandatory rituals of vacationing in St. Tropez, the more mythical one is having lunch at Club 55 (my favorite) in Ramatuelle. It's a nest of celebrities, a place to bump into old friends or simply spot the millionaires (and their entourage) arrived from the four corners of the world. Every day they serve more than 800 guests.

The first time I had lunch at Club 55 I fell in love with their salade Pampelonne (goat cheese, tomatos, fresh mint leaves and vinegar) and today, many years later, I still cannot order something else.

Another beach restaurant is Nikki Beach, also very bling bling. The most decadently famous, la Voile Rouge, has just closed its doors... Some regret it. Other, like myself, not at all. Even St. Tropez' excesses have a limit.

Do you want to go shopping?

Here you'll find Ali Baba's cage. It's best than a cage , because its treasures can not be found anywhere else. Sandals, earrings, beach totes, bikinis, sunglasses and party dresses "made in St. Tropez," worthy only because you find them precisely when you need them. I recommend a detailed visit to the tortuous streets of the seaport: Rue Allard, Rue Georges-Clemenceau, Rue Gambetta, Place de la Garonne. There, the flagship stores of the international labels mingle with the typical tropezienne boutiques, which are a source of inspiration to the most glamorous looks of the summer.

The unforgettable Rondini sandals, which rival those made by K. Jacques in situ, the earrings at Gas and Alix, the sexy dresses at Brigitte B. For some seasons now, big labels as Dior and Chanel install pop-up boutiques on famous villas with gardens. Dior's was decorated by Peter Marino.

One last suggestion: don't miss the markets on Tuesdays and Saturdays, at Place de Lices, an important appointment if you want to feel the true St. Tropez...
Do you want to "faire la fête"?
Then St. Tropez is the perfect place. You can spend the night at Les Caves du Roy, at the Hotel Byblos, which is the favourite spot for all the VIPs (and they are many) in town... However, for me, the best place is Papagayo, which this year has celebrated an important anniversary: 50 summers... Founded by Francois "Frangy" Malortique in 1962, if its walls could talk, they would tell us how Brigitte Bardot danced barefoot, not far from Pablo Picasso, how Francoise Sagan discussed at the bar, how the Disco movement ruled the place by the end of the 70s and how now is the time for the coolest DJs to set the mood. Many loves have flourished and died at the Papagayo.
Feel like resting?
The hotel to be then is Byblos. Right downtown, with Les Caves du Roy downstairs, it's a classic.
A bit retired and closer to the beach is Le Chateau de la Messardière, with premises resembling that of a castle taken from Perrault's fables' (which you may chose to like or not), which has made it already part of St. Tropez's decoration.
My favourite however is La Reserve de Ramatuelle, a small jewel up in the hills, very minimalist, offering peace, calmness and a panoramic view, away from the noise downtown.
Or do you simply want to enjoy a one-of-a-kind sea?
Then go swim around the shore of Ramatuelle. Stay away from the crowded beaches and get lost around the rich and mediterranean nature of this paradise. Everything may change from season to season, except its natural beauty.