Following the footprints of the Leopard...

Quiet summer in town...

It's hot, but not too much. There's not much people, so it's easy to move around, specially if you take the precaution of avoiding the avenues that are being repaired, as for example Ave. Grand Armée. Or the "quais" where, from today, the beaches have popped-up. For eight years now (this one is the 9th season), Paris' City Hall organizes Paris-Plages: artificial beaches, with sunshades, decks and palm trees, all along the Seine. And also concerts, dance contests and food and beverages stalls. Access to beaches is free. 

Of course, all this creates several traffic-jams on the nearby areas, but other than that, Paris is glorious these days... at least for my eyes!!

What a joy to walk along Avenue Montaigne or Faubourg-St. Honoré, window-shopping...!! Les soldes are reaching their peak... Gap offered today 75% off, Benetton 70% off and other big department stores, as Galeries Lafayette or Printemps, are now announcing an extra 30% off on already reduced merchandise!! Of course, not much remains and slowly the Fall-Winter 2010-2011 collections are starting to show-up. A detail has caught my attention: the comeback of the leopard print, which for me was always a synonym of bad taste... But now it has reappeared with quite a chic allure and I'm starting to fall for it!!

I've seen it with all its power in Lanvin, temple of elegance. The whole window had leopard prints: raincoats, boots, dresses, scarves, bags... beautiful.

I've seen it also in a Prada bag, reaching out in the heel of a Christian Louboutin sandal, hiding on a Dior bra, on a YSL's cocktail dress, exploding on Jimmy Choo's flats...

Will I end up finding it also in my wardrobe?

Who knows...!

(Christian Louboutin... Leopard all over!)

Congratulations Spain!!!

After an intense month full of football matches, the Spanish have won... they were probably the best...

Now we have to wait four long years!!

What if we had a World Cup every year or every two years?

Let's get ready for Brazil 2014!!!

Restaurants and Hotels in Paris...

Many of you, dear readers, have been asking me about restaurants and hotels in Paris.

Voici mi list of my favorite restaurants in the Ville Lumière.

There's one that opened recently and it's quite good called "La Societé", in St. Germaine, owned by the Costes dinasty (the same ones of the Hotel Costes, L'Avenue, etc). Then there's "Ralph", by the new Ralph Lauren boutique, but beware: make a reservation in advance before you go! I also like, although it is quite more expensive, but not as much as the "Tour d'Argent," the Bar at the Hotel Ritz, specially the inside terrace. Similar to that is "Laurent", which also has a beautiful garden. Simpler, but a favorite among my sister and me, is "Kaiten," a japanese restaurant with sushi and sashimi, a bar and a self-service buffet. It's opened non-stop, all day long, on the Rue Pierre Charon.

If I want to eat Italian, I go to "La Stresa," which I love. If I feel like going to a restaurant with some History, I head to "Les Closerie de Lilas," which is were Hemingway, Scott Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, the whole lost generation used to go... To see some socialites and showbiz people, the place to dine is "Mathi's."

If I'm with meat-lovers or those feeling nostalgic of Argentina, I take them to "Anahi." 

As for Hotels, those with the good price/good location equation are: The Roosevelt Hotel on Rue Clemont Marot and Hotel Powers, on Rue Francois I. There's also the Hotel de Vigny, on Rue Balzac, and La Tremoille, also by the 8th arrondissement. 

By the Rive Gauche, I would recommend Hotel Lenox, on the Rue de l'Université, and "Hotel," on the Rue des Beaux Arts, very charming and almost in front of the Ecole des Beaux Arts (worth visiting!).

Of course, If you want to feel like a king, the best options are Hotel Ritz and Hotel George V, simply marvelous... as it is also Hotel Crillon, Madonna's favorite.

Anyway, no matter were you stay, Paris is Paris, and you'll enjoy it all the same...

Gaultier's Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2010/2011 Runway Show

One of the more awaited events in Paris are the Haute Couture Fashion Weeks: there's one by the end of January and another by the beginning of July. The city becomes crowded with sophisticated people, important "Couture" clients, Fashion Editors and "socialites" from around the World.
It's so much fun to stop by the many parties and runway shows. Today I've been to J. P. Gaultier's, which is the most exotic and amusing one. I sat in the front row, next to my friends and, once more, in front of Anna Wintour, who was wearing a Pre Fall Lanvin dress that I also have and almost wear today too... imagine her face!!
Catherine Deneuve was also there, wearing a green trench, Inés de la Fressange with a black tailleur and even Duran Duran's John Taylor, very handsome and strangely young... Of course, many beautiful and elegant women and all the press and photographers on Earth!
The collection consisted on 48 luxurious looks... a mixture between Mata Hari and Marlene Dietrich, very "femme fatale," for a the wicked and vile women... or at least it felt like it to me... Turbans, pale faces with long eyelashes and red lips and nails. Extremely long heels, transparencies and lots of black... very vamp!
And as a guest appearance, Dita von Teese wore a black corset to publicize Gaultier's lingerie line and showed her almost naked butt!! Shocking...
It was terribly hot, but it was worth it... a one-of-a-kind event!!

St. Tropez...

Last day in St. Tropez... Time goes by so fast...

It's really a unique and amazing place! An exclusive port, miles and miles of beaches, one of the most important vacation spots in the Côte d'Azur.

And the truth is, it's delicious to spend your holidays in St. Tropez... Walk along the seaport in the morning, sit by the Sennequier to see people walk by or discover new ships arriving, drink mint with ice cubes or stroll around its beautiful little streets, where you'll find the most prestigious brands: Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli, Lanvin, Dior. Not to mention the classic Tropezian stores, such as Ananda or Alix, where they sell the typical must-haves: bikinis, flip flops, sandals, jewelry... everything very bright and colorful. The minimal look does not work here and does not look good either!

After shopping, it's time for the beaches... by ship, even better!

The most famous and beautiful beaches are those of the Pampelonne. And the most popular restaurants are La Voile Rouge, the Club 55 and Niou Largo. La Voile Rouge is the craziest one, the favorite spot for all those Russian and American millionaires (are there still?) who love splashing one another  with champagne and improvising parties by hopping on top of their tables, dancing wild to loud music. On Sunday 4th I've been to one of those parties... it was Independence Day and there were pirate costumes, beautiful girls and lots of champagne... I, who hate the smell of champagne, ended up completely soaked and had to dip in the sea!

Club 55 is quieter, serves great food and you can bump into Hollywood stars, financiers, millionaires and other famous people.

Niou Largo has two restaurants, one of which serves oriental food.

Lunches last till 5 pm and then it's time to nap by the beach or on the ship. Before heading back home, it's welcome to stop by the seaport to check the activities for the evening.

And then, you have to get ready for the night, which in St. Tropez are usually very long...

There's many parties and dinners and two popular bars: "Les Caves de Roi" and "Le V.I.P. Room." I went to none of them so I can't tell you about them... but I've been told it gets wild!

Voilà my small description of St. Trop...

Sadness...

I'm so sad Germany defeated Argentina...
Speechless... A dreams is ending...
Let's see what happens in 2014... Never lose hope...

Good for Uruguay...

I've arrived to St. Tropez this afternoon (one of the top vacation spots in the World) with a lovely weather of 26° C: wonderful indeed if compared to Paris' incredible 36°C!

And while we were having a candlelit dinner, at the home of my French-Belgian friends who very kindly invited me to stay with them, we followed the details of the match between Uruguay and Ghana.

And to tell you the truth, basing myself only on what I've been told... "Chapeau" for Uruguay!

Bravo for fighting till the end and reaching the semifinals... Now you must defeat the Dutch...

What is to happen this Saturday between Argentina and Germany?

I hope the octopus isn't right and Argentina wins...

You know the story of the German octopus, right?

If not, I'll tell it to you tomorrow... Now it's time to go to bed...

Days are long and full of activities in St. Tropez...

More on outlets and "soldes"...

Yesterday the official sales began and it was impossible to move around Paris...

Summer has arrived finally and there's plenty of sun. A note here: I hate it when in Winter people complain saying "Uff. How cold it is... when is it going to stop?" but when it finally does, they go around saying "What an unbearable heat...!" Oh, please, just decide what you like best! Personally I'm happy in Summer, as a true Mediterranean... 

Ok, so, as I was saying, reading some of your comments, I believe there seemed to be a confusion between the concept of sales and that of outlets, which are different, of course.

Outlets appeared in Europe and in the US almost 10 years ago and they are commonly located in small towns around important cities. They are the best spots to shop pieces from past seasons at great prices or timeless classics. The best outlets are in Italy. There's a very good and organized one called The Mall, 40 km from Florence. It's an open-air space with brands as Gucci, Yves Saint-Laurent, Loro Piana, Pucci, La Perla, Valentino, Ungaro and many more. It has a restaurant and Japanese tourists usually hire busses to go from Florence. Another one is Dimension Outlet, near Milano.

Around Paris, in a town called Serris, you'll find La Vallée Village, with up to 90 luxurious brands. All these places are open till late, every day, including Sundays and holidays. 

There are many outlets in the US too, usually around major cities... As NY for example, where you'll find those of Ralph Lauren or Club Monaco...

As for sales, in Europe they are held twice a year: in January, for the Fall-Winter collections and in June/July of the Spring-Summer ones. They are mandatory and reductions go from 30% off up to 70%off on actual collections. So what yesterday was worth 1000 euros, today is worth 500...

Sales are not only reserved for clothing shops, but also for Home decor and bedding stores...

I hope it's clearer now...

Go Argentina!!!!

Three more matches to win... and Argentina will win the World Cup!!!

I've suffered for 93 minutes at my father's place, where I went to see Argentina vs. Mexico with my sister and to where we invited other supporters and the Argentines that, by chance, happened to be in Montepulciano this very day... we found just two, but it is a small town, though...

We suffered and we won... So I guess I must always suffer to win... not that hard...

So, I will definitely suffer next Saturday with the match against Germany... but I do believe in Maradona and his team...

Let's keep it up!!!!

My post number 100...

Destiny or not, I happen to be in Montepulciano, the Tuscan town where I was born, the very same day in which I'll be writing the post number 100 of the blog I've started almost 10 months ago...

Strange coincidence, a short-circuit between my past and my present, an unexpected confrontation with who I used to be and who I am now... All this moves me and intrigues me much...

So let's go to the post number 100 to try to put things straight.

To begin with, Montepulciano: a pure and magical place, full of eternity, olive trees, vines, masterpieces... It is here, under this atmosphere, where I've learned to walk, laugh and love, cry and set clear goals for my life. It's so important to never forget the landscapes that craft our sensitivity. You can be victim of grave dangers when you lose your inner compass...

So it was here, in Montepulciano, around the church of San Biagio (the most beautiful church in the world), crossing the Piazza Grande every day to reach school and staring at the beautiful landscapes of the Valdichiana, that I learned to dream of new horizons, to wish new worlds, to develop my curiosity and interest in others...

From there to writing a blog, although a small step in itself, the roads where extremely long...

Lots of people write blogs in a narcissistic attitude, completely self-centered... believe me, it's not my case!

I want to share my ideas, my experiences, for me, this blog is a feeling.

I'm so happy to have reached post number 100, I wish to reach the number 1000 or 10.000, who knows...

Thanks to all of you who read me, love me, hate me or criticize me... please never stop doing so!

Thanks to Carla for pushing me into the doorstep of this blog and for improving it with the pictures and photos. Thanks to Juan for his French translations.

And to my readers, once again, thanks for stimulating me in this adventure with your comments and suggestions. An adventure I do not know where it will take me, but that I certainly do want to continue...

Shopping for Montepulciano's well-known vino Nobile...

Soldes, soldes!!!

Together with the sun and the good weather. this morning the so-awaited invitations to the soldes privées (a.k.a. the private sales) for the loyal customers have arrived! The official sales begin here in Paris on June 30th, but those who are lucky and know the right people, receive these precious cards that allow them to get from - 20% to -50% off before everyone else... Heaven on Earth for the fashionistas! Those cards are supposed to be personal and not transferable... but we, women, can do the impossible!

Practically all stores go on sale, from the luxurious ones, such as Prada, Dior, Chanel, to big department stores as Galeries Lafayette or Printemps. Gap and H&M too. And don't forget the -20% offered by Sephora and Marionnaud, the biggest stores for fragrances and beauty products in Paris.

Just imagine the horde of mad buyers fighting over a lotion or a reduced lipstick!

The wiser ones follow a "sale protocol": they visit the stores some days in advance, single out the pieces they'll want and even try to befriend store employees so that they secretly put apart the desired stuff for them.

Of course, there are those who just lose their heads and buy a size 34 when they are a size 38 or 40, just because it's on sale...!

A tip from an expert: wear something comfortable, that you can easily take off in fitting rooms, carry a bottle of water and be objective... Don't buy just for buying! It's a time for being reasonable...

Go Argentina!!!!

Oh, what a match that of Argentina vs. Greece!! Good for Martín Palermo!!

Fantastic team, Diego!

On the other hand, how embarrassing France's performance was! Their many defeats, the little connection among players, how sad must they feel tonight when they'll fly back home to Paris...

This is what the World Cup is about, I guess... joys and sorrows... as in real life...

Getty Images. Fifa.com

Royal wedding in Sweden...

As there's not much to see around these days other than football matches, for all of you, romantics as myself, I invite you to check the site SVT Play to see the sumptuous and very, very romantic wedding, held yesterday, between the Crown Princess of Sweden, Victoria, with Daniel Westling. There you'll see the ceremony, the waltz and the speeches, of course many in swedish but the images speak for themselves... And it's a great chance to see beautiful Stockholm...
Cheers for the newlyweds!

Africa

It's 12°C in this Parisian night... too cold for the eve of the European summer... What could be best then than watch another World Cup match?
Cameroon vs. Denmark... let the best win!
But what I really want to talk about in this post are the poetic names by which the African National Teams call each other...
Nigerians are known as the Super Eagles....
C ameroon's team, the Untamed Lions...
Côte d'Ivoire's, the Elefants...
Egyptians, the Pharaohs...
Algerians, the Sahara's Foxes...
Senegal's team is also known as the Lions...
And Ghana's players call themselves the Black Stars...
It's so good that Africa, a continent so beaten and yet so strong, can live in its lands the passion of the World Cup. And perform their ritual dances before each match, no matter the team... Africans are all brothers! And it's so good too that during a whole month football lovers will lay their eyes on them...

Amazing Argentina!!

While I'm watching (and suffering) the match between France and Mexico, I still remember vividly this glorious afternoon when Argentina won over Korea 4 to 1!!
Magic moments...
Let's keep it up!!

Uruguay, Uruguay...

Good for Uruguay, good for Diego Forlan... Fantastic Uruguay!!!

I feel pity for South-Africa, but you know me, I'd like them all to win...

The French are doing the maths: win against Mexico tomorrow, face the defeated South-africans and gain the three points they need... slowly we reach the core of the World Cup...

Do you remember  Gianna Nannini's and Edoardo Bennato's song for Italy's 1990 World Cup?

"Un'estate italiana" it was called and it said "Notti magiche inseguendo un gol..." (magic nights following a goal...)

The best official song of all World Cups ever!!!

It is true... what magic nights are we having...

Getty Images. Fifa.com

PS: Diego Forlan... so good looking, plus a great player...

Vuvuzelas...

I become a football fan every four years, when the World Cup arrives, no matter where I am... I remember watching Mexico's World Cup (1986) in the Dominican Republic, Italy's (1990) in the middle of the Kalahari desert (in fact, I must say I did not actually watch it, but heard it on a small radio), USA's (1994) on an island in the French Polynesia, France's (1998) in the French Riviera, Korea's (2002) in Paris and Germany's final match (2006) in New York, in the apartment of an Argentine friend of mine. That same night I took an Air France flight to Paris and the French wouldn't check me in when they saw my Italian passport... they were still sorry for the defeat...

Four years have gone by now and I follow all the matches with the same passion I inherited from my father, who used to play for Siena in his youth... I shout, suffer and cry and, in the end, I love all teams... for some reason or other. Italy is my birthplace, how can I not love it? Argentina is the passion, Maradona, the Argentine people that I know so well... I could imitate them, how they talk to each other after a goal or a special play in their exact accent!!! 

France gave me so much... And Uruguay... If I go on, I'll find reasons to cheer for South Korea too!

But what I will definitely remember of this World Cup 2010, in addition to all the things to come, is the sound of the vuvuzuelas, those stadium horns made of boiled cardboard that only SouthAfricans know how to blow "comme il faut" and that had already caught the attention of Winston Churchill during the Boer Wars. That obsessive noise, which reminds me of a bee swarm, bothered me from match number one and I will always associate it to this World Cup.

Mythology says that the people of Cape of Good Hope decided to honor bees as if they were Gods (if bees disapeared, men would soon perish... Albert Einstein). According to tradition, vuvuzelas remind us that we'll be reborn after our deaths... And at Cap Town Stadium, many will die and be reborn...

PS: Special remark for Roque Santa Cruz, from Paraguay... so good-looking!!!

Haute Couture in Paris...

I'm finally back in Paris.

It's quite cool outside, 18°C, but all the same the city is already excited with the holidays to come... and as for fashion, in less than three weeks the Haute Couture Collections (the most expensive line of a designer) will be presented.

Although it is considered prestigious and where one can witness a creator in all his strength and depth, not many keep their Haute Couture ateliers working. It's becoming hard to attract clients that can pay the high costs of a hand-sewn and embroidered dress, which requires a toile, at least three fittings and many hours of work. Let's not forget that Hollywood actresses get the dresses for award shows and red carpets on loan, which reduces terribly the spectrum of real clients. The arrival and expansion of prêt-à-porter, plus the rising costs have made the "ceremony" of fitting and buying an Haute Couture dress a luxury for the few. A long time ago, clients would spend months vacationing in Europe so that they could be near and available in Paris for their fittings. Complete wardrobes, with wedding gowns, party and cocktail dresses included, would be ordered. It was another time altogether. According to October's 2008 edition of US Vogue only 200 people used to buy Haute Couture dresses in Paris. This, of course, before the economic meltdown.

To be considered an Haute Couture designer, he or she must belong to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, a division of the French Ministry of Industry, and comply with the rules associated with the title: preside an atelier employing 20 people at least, where complete handmade pieces should be made only upon request. These ateliers are divided into specialized areas such as Tailleur (tailoring), Flou (soft dressmaking) or Embroidery, because it is not the same to work on tweed than on silk or chiffon. Each area is supervised by a Director of Couture who is in charge of leading the whole team into "building" and giving shape to what the designer of the Maison might have sketched. 

The seamstresses and tailors of these workrooms are real artists. As surgeons, with their clinical white coats, they are trained to treat our bodies as a sum of problems to solve, unravelling details and hidden flaws, so that in the end, the final result fits us as a glove. It is said that a Chanel jacket takes 150 hours to make and at least three fittings.

Haute Couture designers must present a minimum of 25 looks, twice a year, in January and July. Before World War II, there were 200 Haute Couture designers. Now only 11 bear the title. A designer who calls himself an Haute Couturier without the approval of the Chambre could be taken to jail, because it is an appelation contrôlée or trade mark. 

Because they are extremely expensive and artisanal, Fashion Houses today trust in their prêt-a-porter lines, perfumes and accessories to make their business work. Keeping the ateliers has more to do with a creative caprice that strengthens the whole label. How? Because by dressing style icons worldwide they pour publicity into their more popular lines. 

I hope to see some of the runway shows and tell you all about them...

It's always a magical experience...

Dior's atelier in Paris (photographed by Patrick Demarchelier for Vogue).

Beverly Hills, California...

I believe Los Angeles, Beverly Hills, even all of California, to be among the places I like the most in the entire World.

Is it because there the sun shines all year long?

Is it because Los Angeles is the Mecca for showbiz and movies, my greatest passion?

Is it because of all the movies I've seen as a child that had these landscapes as settings?

I don't know but every time I get to Los Angeles I feel like a kid in Disneyworld!

Everyone is so beautiful (mostly aspiring actors...), kind to visitors and wear shorts (not now that ther are a trend... since forever!!). The streets of Beverly Hills are so perfect and clean... they shine with the sun and the palm trees that decorate them. Not to mention the stores! The most luxurious brands in the world are present between Rodeo Drive, Wilshire Boulevard, Cañon Dr. and Beverly Dr.

At first sight it seems as if the economic meltdown has never reached this part of the planet... But it is just an illusion, a mirage... 

I have lunch at The Ivy, a delicious restaurant on Robertson Blv., with my friend Allan Harriman, who works in finance and of course he confirms me that California has been hit by the crisis of course! In fact many locals are becoming residents in Las Vegas, Nevada, were taxes are less expensive (so much perfection on the streets cost money!!), and others are looking for new horizons... In Argentina, for instance. I tell Allan that since 2003 Argentina has experienced an interesting growth in the Real Estate market, but of course that growth has been affected by the international crisis and many local difficulties. However, many Real Estate agencies have tried to transform their work methodologies to gain unsatisfied demand and bring confidence to investors from abroad looking for new options to suit their portfolios. I tell Allan that I know an agency called Branson, owned by Hugo Koiffman. a former P.R. who has attracted many of those investors (mainly from Europe and the US), providing legal financial and tax advice. 

Allan appreciates my suggestion... Today, you can discuss business in Argentina will eating at a restaurant in Los Angeles, thanks to blackberries and iPhones...

I say my farewell to him and hit Melrose Ave.

The city waits for me!!

In flight...

Thanks to today's modern technology, I'm writing this post from my airplane seat, in mid-air, somewhere between New York and Los Angeles!

Amazing! It's a first for me and I find this progress will change the way we travel... so comfortable... and it really works!!

Courtney Love, Kurt Cobain's widower, is traveling next to me... more than a wild rocker, she looks like a tired businesswoman. She has an Hermès Birkin bag and Chanel flats. Only a tattoo around the ankle reveals her true nature.

As Los Angeles is the Meca for Showbiz, it's common to see celebrities taking this flight.

After 36 intense hours in NYC, a moment for peace and meditation in the sky.

The trip is quite long, almost seven hours of flight in the middle of the day, but if my batteries resist, I won't even feel them...

NYC was splendid. Nice hot weather (almost 30°C), sun and lots of people on the streets. Women in shorts and miniskirts... it's definitely a trend.

Sales have begun yesterday, -30% and -40% off. Americans are great followers of sales, they expect them and organize themselves around them very consciously (money is money... earning it or saving it... isn't it all the same?). Except, of course, on the second floor of Bergdorf, on the shoe section, where I saw a sea of wild women fighting over Manolos and Louboutins...

I took a pair of gladiator sandals by Giuseppe Zanotti, but the sales-guy who was supposed to bring them  on my size took so long that I left. I'm glad I didn't fall for the temptation of compulsive shopping.

The best of all I saw in Gap and Abercrombie & Fitch. At Gap. delicious long cotton dresses with flowers, green, pink or light blue. Shorts (again!!) in all lengths and shapes, tartan shirts, belts, sandals. I did the math and calculated that with 200 or 300 dollars you can update your summer wardrobe. And properly.

At Abercrombie, in spite of the loud music, the strong scent of the atmosphere and the never-ending lines to the fitting rooms and then the cashiers, you can find trendy clothes, young and of excellent quality. I love Abercrombie! Great jeans, lovely t-shirts and the best pieces for outdoor sports!

And the sales people, boys and girls, are so beautiful and sexy that many tourists have their pictures taken with them... Specially those with their naked torsos and huge abs that receive visitors at the main entrance... in winter and in summer. Almost naked.

Anyway, in spite of the euphoria on the streets, due to the arrival of summer and the prospects of holidays, it is quite obvious that the economic crisis is not over... My friend Debbie, who works at Oscar de la Renta, told me that things are tough, cutting budgets and orders everywhere. Before, department stores ordered many pieces, now it's only what they know they'll sell. No one wants to be stuck with stuff they'll have to put on sale afterwards.

At Judith Leiber's stand, my friends George and Linda told me that they read my blog... the idea of having someone reading me in New York made me just happy...

Uh. Batteries are running out...